Bon appétit!

Eating is an art in France and I quickly grew fond of their ways. Some fresh vegetables, fresh herbs, good meat and a simple recipe is all that it took.  If you are eating everything you just bought that day, then there's no reason to have so much space in your refrigerator is there?  It is for that reason their refrigerators are so much smaller in comparison to ours.  For Americans, going to the market is an inconvenience but for the French, it is part of their every day routine.  The food in France is of good quality and it's not full of all these chemicals that try to make it last a lifetime, or contain less sodium.  Everything is fresh and natural which means their is nothing better for our bodies!  Unlike Asia and besides my lactose intolerant level when it came to cheese, my stomach was agreeing with everything I was eating.  If there is one thing that I had a hard time adjusting to, it was the breakfast.  That's not to say that I didn't enjoy theirs, it's just that I had a difficult time adjusting to that type of breakfast at that time of the day.  Me, I like my typical English Breakfast...I am a salty kind-of-person in the morning. The French, they are all about the sweets..all the time sweet, sweet, sweet.  For breakfast, someone will take a stroll to their closest neighborhood patisserie to purchase baguettes, croissants and chocolate filled pastries for everyone in the house.  Those items will then be accompanied by butter or Nutella, and then washed down with either coffee, tea, or chocolate milk.  Primary ingredients: bread and chocolate...yeah a lot different then my typical morning meal.  Nothing wrong with it, just not my cup of tea. 

Some beverages that one would often see in a household other than coffee are these cans of different flavored syrups. Similar to the grenadine that we use in our drinks except everyone mixes a small amount of this with either water or soda water. In Tristan's case, his favorite was milk with the menthe verte (mint) syrup.  Then of course there is always the wine...do I even need to go there?  Box wine, 2 Euro wine, free wine, it didn't matter what kind of wine, it always tasted amazing and came with no hang over!   (maybe not every time)

Now for lunch and dinner, they both started the same way. While the main course is being prepared, the table is set and everyone gathers around for good conversation and apéritif. 

Saucisson: dried meats cut thin and served with apéritif

The meal before the meal.

Apéritifs are alcoholic beverages such as champagne or white wine that are served with food items like bread, crackers, cheese and olives. The purpose of this is to help stimulate the appetite before the main meal comes out.  At first, I would often find myself almost halfway full before it was time for me to eat the real dish, but I soon learned to pace myself and save room for the good stuff.  What were some of my favorite meals prepared for me?  Well there was Moules à la crème (mussels cooked in sauce and complimented with french fries), Galette (large and thin buckwheat pancake, folded over and filled with various items/similar to concept of a burrito), and my absolute favorite dish was Raclette (melted cheese, dried meat, and small firm potatoes.)  The concept of it made it fun to eat, it was simple and absolutely delicious.  Those are only to list a few of things I tried.

Moules

Galette

Raclette

Are you full yet because there's more?  Following right after a well prepared meal comes the fromage (cheese) platter.  The French eat more cheese than any one in the world (or so I read) and they always leave room for the cheese.  There is often a range of cheeses served and this signifies the ending to a good meal...well so I thought.  The last is the offer for coffee or tea and besides the children, everyone will always say yes.  It is usually offered with chocolate or some kind of French dessert. My favorite dessert were the macarons, just the right texture and the flavors to choose from are endless! 

 

  

Macarons

 Oh, did I say that was the last part?  Sorry, I forgot there is still one more thing...and this is the last I promise.  Now I am not 100% sure on the names but it is referred to as either "l'eau de vie" or "la goute."  If there is some of this in the house, it is then offered as a digestive (as if their strong coffee isn't enough).  This strong potion is usually made by a grandpa or an uncle of someone in the house.  Similar to our Moon Shine.

Voila! Dining with the French.

Just imagine me in beginning of my visit in France, I usually don't like to say no to trying foods because I feel that it's rude so when I first arrived I was always saying yes to everything.  Little did I know that their meals lasted a century.  You can imagine how frightened I was feeling after the cheese platter, I had no idea what was coming next!  Haha, but now that I am familiar, I am in love with their way of eating and everything they eat. It's simple to remember; fresh fresh fresh, baguettes with every meal, apéritif, cheese, coffee and chocolate...I guess I could have just written that and made a long story short but that's no fun.  Really though, I will continue to eat and cook like them no matter where I live for the rest of my life. 

Bon appétit!

Enchantée

Settling in nicely, Tristan began by introducing me to his hometown of Rennes and from there we visited surrounding areas such as Fougères (where his father lives) and Saint-Malo.  Plenty of meals to eat, plenty of people to meet and plenty of places to see.  I got to meet all of his family, all of his closest friends and everyone that came along in between.  And yes, for those of you that are wondering, when you meet someone you kiss on each side of the cheek and accompany it with either a "Bonjour," "Salut," or which ever correct greeting is appropriate pending on the person and time of day.  I was told the really formal meeting can include 4 kisses (2 on each side) and when kissing children it's only 1 because they're often shy.  It's the same when you are leaving a group and often times, family members like to receive the kisses in the morning when you wake up.  It was strange for me at first but after a while it became normal practice.  I think it's a really meaningful greeting rather than a handshake but with all of our personal bubbles here in America, this would never fly.  Everyone I was around was always so hospitable and people always wanted to enhance my experience of the French lifestyle by either cooking for me or inviting me out to certain places.  Never having been to France before, the image that I've always had in my head is a place with beautiful buildings, cobblestone roads, beautiful landscapes and people sipping wine, indulging in some good quality cheese in a nice sidewalk cafe.  Well it's not all the time that the image in your head matches exactly to the reality of how a place really looks.  Honestly, that is exactly what you see when you go to France.  Sometimes I felt like I was on a set for some old fairy tale play. 

This country is old and you can feel the history just by looking at the buildings.  They are gorgeous, even the newer ones still feel very...French.  I think that my obsession with old buildings made it that much easier for me to fall in love with this place.  It's not just the old aged look and the imperfections that I like but it has to do more with the history.  The events that happened years ago and what it was like to be in that space during that time. That's what I love and here, it's everywhere. 

One thing that I learned quickly, is that no matter what or where we were exploring, there was never a lack of something delicious to eat.  There are creperies, cafes, and patisseries every time you turn your head.  It is dangerous being around all that yummy food but surprisingly enough, it doesn't seem to be all that dangerous to the French...hell, everyone is skinny! How? Even the McDonald's in France is still considered classy.  As I lived with Tristan and got to know his family/friends and their way of enjoying life, I started to see the differences from that of the American lifestyle. The one thing that is obviously different is the foooood!

Bienvenue!

I was so very excited to be heading into Europe, I knew that I might not be able to stay long but I've waited my whole life to come here.  I had a place to stay, an agenda planned out and everything was prepared for my arrival.  Usually, you expect to see a familiar face waiting for you when you arrive at the airport but due to the fact that my situation was a bit different, I trained myself to not think like that.  It helps to avoid that feeling of loneliness.  However, when I arrived to France, I soon remembered what it was like to feel the comfort of having someone come to the airport to pick you up.  Remember Tristan?

Tristan Beillard

Yes, he was there!  Ever since I met him, we had planned for me to meet him in France and now it was finally happening.  He had arranged for him and his best friend to pick me up, drive me on a quick tour through Paris (we'd be back to explore another day) and head back to their home town in Rennes.

         

Immediately entering the airport I felt a drastic change from being in Asia for the past 4 months and I became extremely excited when the immigration guard took my passport and said, "Bonjour Monica!" Haha, silly I know but I think everyone has a slight fascination with the French language.  The weather...A LOT colder but yet I enjoyed it. The air was refreshing and I was happy to know that I wouldn't feel the need to take 3 showers a day to avoid being in a constant state of sweat.  This was going to be great.  I was in for a real treat, the true experience of what it's like to live in France like a local.

Same Same but Different

It's all true, the stories you hear about Bangkok, the way they portray it in Hangover II, it all exists. Nothing that I will go into detail about but yes the lady boys, the ping pong shows, Khoasan Road, the strange bars, the night markets, the floating markets...the bad and the good all jumbled together. I don't even want to know what goes on behind the closed doors on some of these streets. Three days in Bangkok was just enough time for Moe and I to get a sense of the city. In fact, we got a sense of it right when we got off the bus. We had no idea where our hostel was located so we decided to catch a taxi there. Of course we knew that the possibility of getting ripped off was high if we did this, but considering we were both rookies of Bangkok, any help was worth it. We jumped in, he drove us around the block in a circle then took a quick right after passing the bus stop we just arrived to. Yup, just like we called it, our hostel was only down the street and around the corner...we got ripped off. Nothing we could do but laugh about it...besides, what's 100 Baht split between 2 people (roughly $1.55/per). Luckily, a friend of ours had recommended this place and reviews described it to have the best location (away from the madness) and the cleanest accommodation (highly important) in Bangkok. From my understanding, affordable, prime location and cleanliness are three things that are hard to come by in Bangkok. Hot and dirty during the day, hot and dirty during the night. Most of our time was spent on Khoasan Road...this small street is located in the center of Bangkok and is internationally known as the "backpackers ghetto." Everything that a backpacker needs is on this street. Accommodation, cheap food, Thai massages, souvenirs, pharmacies, bars, they make it so you feel like you never have to leave. Our place was about a 5 minute walk from here so naturally, we did like the masses did and explored this street on a daily basis.

For both Moe and I, Thailand was the last country before we headed into Europe. So we decided to take advantage of the cheap prices and stock up on souvenirs for ourselves and our family/friends. There is nothing more fun than trying to bargain with the merchants but for some reason...it always feels like you are the one that loses. It doesn't matter if you have been down the street once or a million times, you hear the same guys calling out to you..."special price for you my friend!"..."cheap, cheap!"..."custom suits for you my man!"..."dvds/cds!" The list goes on and on but the most famous Thai saying, the one printed on all the tank tops, SAME SAME BUT DIFFERENT. If you see someone with that on their shirt, you know they've been to Thailand. You could easily make a book with all the sayings you hear.

A few dresses later, some cookware for the Mother, a tank for a friend, a couple bugs to snack on and the souvenir mission was done. Now to try and fit it all into my suitcase was another issue but I would make it work somehow. No matter what, I was done with Asia and ready for civilization! France was calling my name!

The After Math

Almost everyone flees the island once the FMP ends and the island becomes dead. Some are so savage that they even plan to party until the first ferry. It is a bit sad that everyone only knows Koh Phangan for the FMP because it has a lot more to offer than just partying. My situation was a bit different though, I lost my debit card so that kept me a good 5 days after. This meant I had to break off from my travel group as they continued their journey on to Koh Tao. Sad but happy to be able to give my body a rest. Like I have said before, when you travel, you will find that you are never alone. When you travel in a large group, it is always a party. It makes me value my time alone. Once they left the island, I moved out of town to my friends resort for some pure zen mode festivities.

My own clean bungalow, some chill down-to-earth travelers and good internet connection...it was all I needed to set my head down and figure out my next move. By this point, my funds were low and I knew if I didn't get to Europe fast enough I'd never make it there. Plus, I had someone waiting for me in France, so France it was.  With my ticket bought, my accommodation figured out all I had to do was make it happen. My flight was out of Bangkok which was perfect because I have always wanted to experience the madness that the people and the movies describe.  I just didn't want to do it alone considering how dangerous it can be. So, of course I found a traveler going on the same route, his name was Moe from Germany!  Both Bangkok virgins, we traveled to explore the nitty gritty city of Bangkok.

Amsterdam Bar

Moe

Freak Show

The buses are full, the ferries are at maximum capacity and everyone is going to Koh Phangan for just one thing and one thing only...Full Moon Party (FMP) 2012.  It's easy to decipher those who are new arrivals and those who have been worked over by the Island's 24-hour non-stop partying.  The newcomers are loud, excited, healthy and ready-to-go. Those leaving the island are literally walking zombies.  Still wearing their neon tank tops/shorts, bags under their red eyes, remnants of neon paint on various parts of their body and lets not forget to mention the injuries.  Everyone gets one (I'll explain a little later). Most arrive to the island and other various surrounding islands somewhere around a week prior to the big fiesta.  The reason, well of course, the pre-parties...a bit ridiculous I know but the kids love it.

Most of those that have gone will say the pre-parties are actually better than the Full Moon Party itself.  I'd have to agree but only because by the time the FMP begins, the effects of partying 4 consecutive days has already gotten the best out of you.  Consider it training for the real shindig.  The pre-parties are just as they sound: Coral Bungalow Pool Party (yes, in a pool), The Jungle Party (you guessed it, in a jungle), The Waterfall Party (uh-huh), and of course The Beach Party (guess where that is AND it happens every night).  Nothing original here, just massive amounts of people running around like wild monkeys. The real magic though, is seen on the FMP night.  From dusk until dawn, the beach of Haad Rin turns into a dancing frenzy with anywhere from 10,000-30,000 people grooving to all the different types of music being pumped out along the beach.  Everyone is decked out in their best neon attire (or lack there of) and the goal is to make it until the sunrise.  However, for those who have gone past their limit and just can't make it, they need not worry, there is a designated nap area fenced off in the middle of it all...an absolute brilliant idea.  Here you will see spooning at its finest.  We tried our best to lure our friend Tom to nap, he was too drunk and we were sick of watching over him but he wouldn't give up. The Red Bull did the trick, I swear they are 20 times stronger in Asia then they are back in the states.

 The beach is filled with alcohol bucket vendors, fire eaters, fire water slides, anything with fire, anything that's not safe or smart when drinking or playing with fire.  This is the reason for the massive amounts of injuries.  You mix alcohol, party people, and fire on a lawless island and you are sure to see people wrapped up in bandages. Anything from broken legs, eye patches, broken arms, neck braces the list goes on and on. Just put it this way, if it can happen, chances are it probably will.  Not that I am trying to scare any concerned mothers or fathers, if your kid has brains, they'll survive...easily.  Parents: you can consider it your Wood Stock, except maybe a little less friendly and more about the party than the music.  This is not the kind of music festival you bring your kids too.  Yet, I will vouch that it is an experience of a lifetime and something to check off of the list. I highly recommend it, sooner than later.

OUR Next Move

One full week in the Perhentian Islands is no where near enough time but more of us had re-grouped from KL and we all had the same destination in mind from there...Full Moon Party 2012, Thailand. Originally, I was supposed to meet a friend of mine for this party but since she wasn't able to make it I was worried that I would have to attend alone (not very safe). However, one thing that I learned quickly is that you are never alone when traveling. Within only a few weeks, I met over 20 people going to the same place I was at the very same time. Travelers travel the same routes and it's likely that you will run into someone you know. I have yet to do so but I can't wait until I do because there's nothing like seeing a familiar face. So, I made the trek crossing the "dangerous" boarder of Malaysia and Thailand by land, traveling in a group of 10. Man, what an adventure that turned out to be.

They call me Turtle

Luggage guard dog

I had been so used to traveling from country to country on my own, I soon remembered just how different it was being in a large group. There are the leaders and the followers and with all of us being fully capable of traveling the world on our own, I think most of us just shut off and waited for someone to step up and be the tour guide. So of course, I checked out the trains times, bus routes, ferry options and hostels with Jason's approval (a very experienced traveler) and from there we went! The problem with mapping out your route is that you can never fully plan it correctly because things just aren't up-to-date. Whether it be the website (if there even is one), the prices or the route times, there is only so much planning that one can do and as for the rest, you just wing it. People are always willing to help. A good website for any train system in the world...Seat51. The creator is a genius and describes every single little thing from differences in class types to virtual tours of the trains themselves. I recommend it to anyone traveling. Off we went, 8am boat to the mainland and 2 buses to the boarder. Yes, we made it to Thailand but the day was far from over. Each one of us (all 10) hopped on motorcycle taxis with our luggage on our backs all the way to the train station. A fun sight to see but I had a slight scare with my motorcycle driver when he suddenly made a quick left as the rest of my friends and their own drivers continued to go straight. In my head, I was thinking "shit" but out loud I murmured a "uuuuummmm excuse me?" The driver did the quick left and a U-turn so he could turn rleft back on the road where everyone else was...clever man. He was just trying to refrain from having to stop at a red light.  Phew! There it was, the train station...we loaded up on Leos and Changs for the long train ride and pumped up the tunes. We were living the dream.

Every time the train stopped, we loaded up on brews. Train side service!

By the time we arrived to Surat Thani, we were all passed out and barely made the jump off the train. It was about half past midnight and the ferries to get to Koh Phangan were all closed by now. So the gang sat in the streets with stray dogs at the only stand that was opened to enjoy some street side Thai food. As they did that, I ventured off with my friend Jaena to find us a place to sleep for the night. We found 3 rooms, 6 doubles beds for 10 rowdy people all for the price 850 Baht. That is about $26 USD, I love Thailand prices.

Rice, fried egg, spicy chicken and veggies. Pretty good train food.